| PART | WORK | REMARKS |
| Work safely | Wear work shoes with tread No scarfs or loose bit of rope! | Unsafe situation? Raise the alarm! Point out possible danger to team members Worked a while with your head upside down? Take a break to make sure you’re not dizzy. |
| Scaffolding | Build a safe scaffold (certified) Check toe boards and mesh Do not place anything on a scaffold hatch | Always check the gutter when the scaffolding is up. We always clean the gutter and notify the customer when we encounter issues. |
| Cover | Cover the workspace with tape, dust sheets (‘stucloper’), or plastic. For the floor: first, place HPX tape along the skirting board. Clean up after each workday. We opt for dark grey plastic stucloper, so paint drops can be seen clearly and be removed before they stick to the soles of your shoes. | ‘Stucloper’ and thick plastic covers can be used more often. Use PVC tape on wooden floors. On adhesive baseboards, only use masking tape! ! Special care for falling materials between the scaffolding and the facade! |
| Cleaning | Degrease the parts to be painted. Use a small amount of water with a little stMarc or similar. For stickers: special remover or some white spirit. WD40 sometimes works too. | No water in/on open wood |
| Scratching | Remove moss and other dirt Scrape away loose parts and cut out rotted wood | Deep wood rot (> 20mm): consult Mold in the wood: consult Be careful not to damage the glass or wood |
| ANALYSIS: repair or replace? | Is the wood still repairable? Check with a moisture meter if there is moisture in the wood, inspect the woodwork for leaks and damp spots. Mold in wood should be replaced anyway. Too wet? Replace with hardwood. Repairable: choose the right method >>>> | >>>> You only use 2k filler on large sections. On the moving joint between two plank sections (especially if they are at an angle or perpendicular to each other), you use an elastic filler, like caulk. This seam needs to be able to flex, especially if there might still be a moisture issue. |
| Grinding | Dealing with deep cracks in wood or stone? Use the electric straight grinder. Ask for safety instructions! | Make sure you stand/sit in a solid way (because of possible recoil) and grind meticulous. |
| Filling | Wood repair with 2K epoxy + epoxy primer Fill in stone with putty / fine cement Expecting rain? Cover open wood and epoxy with aluminum foil. If epoxy gets wet, the chemical process won’t start (no curing). | Wet surface (for example a wall in a canal): use epoxy to seal, but if the wall needs to be open, attach a wooden of HPL board |
| Taping | Mask windows and other parts Off For glass, always leave a 1-2 mm gap | Use a putty knife and tear the tape at a 45-degree angle |
| Sanding | Filler hardened? Then only sand. Sand as little as possible and not too deep. Old drips become (in the eyes of the customer) our new drips. So remove them! | Only sand the entire wood bare for a mirror finish Stripping paint: always consult first Completely different color undercoat: consult |
| Clean | Clean the surface to be painted. Use a small amount of paint thinner. | White spirit evaporates quickly and ensures better adhesion |
| Caulking | Use paintable sealant (no silicone) Glass? Monustop or homemade putty Seal window/glass at a 45-degree angle | First sand, then apply the sealant We rarely use putty (long drying time) Thick glass? Apply the window sealant high so that you can no longer see the rebate. Caulk with a sharp edge? Tape. Neat caulk joint: a bit of soapy water |
| Priming | Officially, priming is the process of treating bare wood. | |
| Base layer paint | First check temperature, sunlight, and humidity Apply the base layer quickly and adequately Can optionally use a roller Door: divide into sections, work wet-on-wet Note: If the wood is already in primer or in paint that still adheres very well, no need to prime it. Bare or patched spots should be ‘stained’ with primer beforehand. | We often use the same color for primer and paint. The difference can be seen in the reflection of the new layer. Painting can be done on non-dry sealant. Don’t paint directly from the paint can; pour some out instead. This is safer and prevents dirt from getting into the paint. |
| First coat of finish paint | Primer dry to the touch? Then apply the topcoat. Sand very lightly and clean with mineral spirits. Paint well but quickly. | Fill small holes with a bit of putty on the primer Dip the brush in the paint and shake. The less paint the better. At the end of the day your brush should be almost clean. |
| Second coat of finish paint | First coat of paint dry? Then the top coat. Sand very lightly and clean with white spirit. Paint with precision and always with a brush. Remove the tape immediately but carefully. Remove splashes and drips with white spirit. | You can also remove the tape earlier and take it off by hand. Brush over with a flat brush for extra shine. Make sure the solvent does not get on the paint. |
| Check! | Inspection of the painting work by a colleague Final check with the client Always clean the windows at the end. Not with water, but with a little ‘wasbenzine’ (white spirit) and a cloth | Colors may change a little during drying (especially silk gloss paints). Tip: You often only see white splashes/spots on a wooden deck when you wet the wood. |
| PROCESS | ||
| Brushes | Brushes in water or wrapped in foil/plastic (when used the next day) Brushes in linseed oil (when not used for a long time, clean first) | |
| Wall painting | Pre-treat stains and mold Prime absorbent surfaces Remove loose parts and fill. No latex, only mineral paint | First try to determine the cause of stains and mold growth. Recurring problem? |
| Customers (and neighbours) | Feel free to have a chat now and then and share knowledge Going to the toilet? Take off your shoes! Dispose of cigarette butts and other trash properly | The customer not only pays for the painting work but also for a flawless experience |
De Mooimakerij makes Utrecht even more beautiful through skilled restoration painting.
Nederlands | Engels | Arabisch